Climbing in Genyen

Genyen Massif is part of Shaluli Shan Range. It is located 700km west to Chengdu and close to the Tibetan border (TAR). It is a big massif of over 100 mountains. Most of them are unclimbed mountains of 4000+ and 5000+ meters with the 5000+ meters mountain over 30. The Highest mountain of Geynen (6204) is called Mount Genie itself. Mount Genie is also the highest mountain of the whole Shaluli Shan Range. The nearest town of Genyen Mountains are Litang and Batang.

Among these mountains are the known Mt. Genie, Mt. Xiaozha, Mt. Hutsa, Mt. Kamailong, Mt. Yangmolong, Mt. Xiashe, Mt.Xialong Rezha. Listed below is the detailed and the most updated map of the mountains in Genyen Massif, including the names of the mountains, villages, valleys and nomads settlements.

Mt. Genyen

Mt. Genyen (Mt. Genie) is the highest mountain with an elevation of 6204 meters, formerly recorded as 6164m. It is located by the south range of Genyen Massif and shares the name of the mountain range itself. It is a holy mountain in Tibetan culture. First reported by William Gill and first summmited from southeast route by a Japanese expedition team in August 1987, Genyen is known as a less explored mountain.

Mt. Hutsa

Mt. Hutsa (5863m) is a mountain located at the south range of Genyen Massif east to Mt. Genie and west to Mt. Kamailong. Its Tibetan name is Heka Rezha, called by every local people. Hutsa was summited in 2016 November from the south entrance where Rengo Monastery is located and it was the first recorded summit.

Mt. Xiaqiong

Mt. Xiaqiong is located west to Mt. Genie at the south range. Its elevation is at 5900+m.

Mt. Kamailong

Mt. Kamailong (5873m) is actually called Kaimailong by local People. It is a holy mountain and Kaimailong is the name of the Buddha worshiped by local villagers. Mt. Kamailong was first summited in 2012 via the southwest ridge and the second summit was made in 2017 October via southeast ridge. Both base camps are within 4 hours from the nearest village Zetong (Rari Kawa).

Mt. Xiaozha

Mt. Xiaozha(5780+m) is located at the south range of Genyen Massif next/west to Mt. Genie. It shares the name with the valley and the lake at its foot.

Mt. Yangmolong

Mt. Yangmolong is located separated to the main range of Genyen to its northwest. Mt. Yangmolong was documented as 6060 meters. It is better to be accessed from north Batang Xian with 2 hours of drive and half day’s walk to its foot.

Mt. Xialong Rezha

Mt. Xialong Rezha (5625m) is located at the west of Genyen Range. The name means place of big rocks with horned animals. It was first summited in November 2016 from the west side.

Climbing season is believed to be after May. The former attempts to Genyen mountains were conducted in August, September, October, November and December. From January to May it is considered not very friendly weather time for climbing when the snows are too much and possibilities of avalanche are higher. The strong wind comes by Jan to March normally. Monsoon comes from June to September and the best time for climbing is considered to be from October to November.

The access to the mountains are not the same if you are aiming different mountains in Genyen Massif. All expeditions to Genyen normally start from Chengdu and from Chengdu you get to Litang or Batang, which are towns to stop over before you go into the mountains. Climbing the mountains at the east and south sides of Genyen (which are Mt. Genie, Mt. Kamailong, Mt. Hutsa, Mt. Xiaozha, etc) you normally enter from Litang. Climbing mountains at its west (Mt. Yangmolong, Mt. Xialong Rezha, etc) you enter from Batang.

All mountains in Genyen are OPEN to foreign climbers. Sichuan Travel Guide can help arrange climbing permits and logistics for any climbers that are interested in this part. Due to the accident in 2006’s attempt to Mt. Genie, the local people had unhappy experiences due to unregistered climb in this area. Local authorities have enforced strict rules in terms of climbing here. It is encouraged and necessary to get a climbing permit before you climb to avoid unnecessary harassment from local authorities, and this is also to not make it more difficult for future climbers.